Long train journeys are one of travel’s self-indulgences. There’s something old school and charming about them. And whilst the Yangon to Bagan train isn’t the Orient Express, it is still a great experience and a terrific way to see the Myanmar countryside.

The Yangon to Bagan train, and the reverse journey, occurs once per day on the #61 train.

There are a number of classes available, but as the travel time is at least 17 hours, and it runs overnight, I would recommend travelling in an upper class sleeper cabin.

This post is written from the perspective of riding in one of these cabins.

The Yangon to Bagan Train

Myanmar is a big country full of long journeys. Whilst taking at least one train ride in Myanmar is worth the effort, and the time, there are many other options for travelling through the country. Modern buses, cheap flights, taking a cruise along one off the many rivers, and even hiring a car and driver.

Do I have other Yangon to Bagan travelling options?

Yes, Bagan is easily reached by the following:

• Yangon to Bagan Bus – multiple buses run between Yangon and Bagan. Travel time is 10 hours and buses run during the day or overnight. For timetable and tickets prices, see this site.
• Yangon to Bagan Flight – each of the major local airlines fly this route. Flights take around 1 hour and 20 mins. Cost $100+ Tickets can be booked direct with the airlines or through your normal travel operator.

How do I buy Yangon to Bagan train tickets?

Myanmar Railways do not have a computerized ticketing system, which impacts on the options for buying tickets. Bookings are manual and tickets are handwritten.

The options to buy tickets are as follows:

Online

Tickets can be purchased online with more than 5 days’ notice. A number of agencies offer this service and if you are planning your trip in advance this can be a good option. Prices are more than if you buy using one of these services, which, in this case, is the cost of convenience.

You will not receive your tickets via an e-ticket. Theses agencies will purchase tickets from the railway and you will need to pick up your tickets from the respective representative office once in Yangon.

Myanmar Railways Booking Office

Tickets can be purchased at the booking office 1 to 3 days in advance of the trip.

However, this office is not located at the Yangon Central Railway Station, but at a non-descript location nearby on Bo Gyoke Road. The entrance is not as easy to find as you would expect. It is opposite Sakura Tower and looks like the pictures below. The office closes at 3pm.

Note: We used this method for purchasing our tickets. When entering the ticketing area, head to the last window, where a helpful English speaking chap will help you out.

Bonus Note: This location is walking distance to 999 Shan Noodle Shop, on 34th street, a “must visit” Burmese restaurant in Yangon.

Yangon Central Railway station

Tickets are sold at the station for same day travel, although you won’t know if any upper class sleeping cabin seats will be available until you get to the station.

I have read that upper class sleeper cabins are not available during the rainy season. We travelled to Myanmar during July/August and they were available for this route.

The cost of an upper class sleeper cabin seat varies depending whether you buy direct or through an agency. Budget between $22 to $28 per seat.

What is the Yangon to Bagan upper class sleeper cabin like?

The 4-person upper class sleeping cabin has 4 cushioned and upholstered seats, a toilet, foldaway tables in between the seats, windows that open, and a small rotating ceiling fan that sends some air through the cabin.

For sleeping, the pull out seats join to make 2 larger beds, and there are two bunk type permanent beds above, which are slightly smaller.

Sheets and pillows are provided, but no blankets.

There is plenty of room to store bags.

There is one possible downside in that the rest of the train is not accessible. Before the train departs, train attendants will take your order for dinner and breakfast, and will deliver these meals to you at the appropriate time. Beer can be ordered.

The food choices are rather slim but a sweet and sour chicken and fried rice was tasty enough, as was the milk tea.

There will be food and drink sellers along the way at stations, and although approaching the sleeper cabins seemed to be an afterthought, they did offer lots of fresh fruit and water.

Take plenty of snacks and water.

What is the Yangon to Bagan train ride like?

There is no escaping that the train is noisy, and that there are plenty of bumps and rattles along the way. It’s fine for watching out the window, reading, and watching movies on a laptop, but at one point I tried writing and found that too difficult.

No-one had any difficulty sleeping.

What can I see out the window?

The train leaves at 4pm and trundles through the city at a slow pace, passing through the residential area of Yangon. Life along the tracks is very visible, and not very private, as many people live within a few meters of the track.

The sun sets quickly enough and the train starts its journey through the countryside. Dinner is served and before long the rocking of the train has everyone ready for an early night.

On our trip, and during the early hours of the morning, our train stopped in the middle of nowhere. And didn’t move. For hours. We weren’t sure how long we had been stopped but my Google Maps showed we were only half way to Bagan. Our 10am arrival time wasn’t looking good. We were eventually told that we had to change trains and that we had to take a half hour drive in the back of a utility vehicle to reach the new train. This delayed our trip by 5 hours.

This delay gave us a lot more time to take in the Myanmar countryside.

We were travelling through Myanmar during the wet season and we saw many farmers planting rice seedlings into the irrigated rice paddies.

There were many sugar palms lining the Yangon to Bagan train route, most with black clay pots hanging in the vegetation at the top of the tree. These pots collect sap from the palm fronds, which have been sliced open by a worker who has climbed the palm using a very long ladder.

This sap is subsequently boiled into a thicker paste that eventually forms palm sugar. We made sure we bought a small piece of the final product when we were in Bagan.

There were also fields being prepared for planting, oxen and carts, ducks, people washing in streams, hills in the distance, and lots of green. It was the rainy season after all.

At one point children starting running alongside the train. There would have been 20 or 30 of them. It seemed to go on for about a kilometer, then stopped as abruptly as it had started.

We travelled through towns and stopped at ornate train stations along the way. We saw too much rubbish in spots, but mostly the countryside is beautiful.

Despite the additional travel time, we all enjoyed the Yangon to Bagan train journey.

What happens at Bagan Railway Station?

We arrived in Bagan a little tired from the long trip. At the door of the cabin we were met by our self-appointed taxi driver, and a few men who were there to carry our bags to his taxi.

At this stage, it isn’t necessary to use this taxi driver or accept help to carry the bags. You can carry your own bags, and bargain with one of the other taxi drivers waiting in the carpark. You will save a few dollars, but to be honest, unless you are on a strict budget, this is a handy way to “spread the wealth” in Myanmar, with each bag carried putting a dollar or two into a needy pocket.

The train is a short taxi ride to the hotel, and we were greeted with a welcome drink and a comfortable bed to relax on before heading out to discover the amazing town of Bagan.